How specialized training changes in the fashion system

Manufacturing, Management Engineering, Statistics, Marketing, Cultural Anthropology. As the supply of luxury companies increases to train new specialized staff, what remains of the youngsters’ dream of becoming Alessandro Michele?

Among the many great battles that take place in the world, there is one, quiet, without bloodshed, which nevertheless affects, changes and directs a system, and it is the slow, sure attitude of the great fashion companies even in the territory of higher. Training in the sector. As evidenced by the important protocol of understanding Altagamma and the Ministry of Education, signed in 2016 but now in full swing with the first, effective courses delivered in the technical institutes, It is evident that the technical training provided by ITS companies is not regarded as qualified and adequate to their standards, which in fact is currently undergoing a thorough review, and therefore intervenes with high production training courses in the shoe schools’ main schools and goldsmiths. “To respond to the lack of profiles and skills in the high-end industry,” said the association’s general manager Stefania Lazzaroni, who estimates the technical-professional numbers in the high-end sector at around 270 thousand. today until the next three years “.

Brunello Cucinelli he started his school in Solomeo, a small workshop where he made very high tailoring profiles for himself and for other companies, in short, not an official qualification but a kind of excellence license, and almost all luxury companies did the same with their “academy” : Bvlgari, Prada, active for twenty years or, again, associations such as CNA with the RMI Academyfounded even in 1991, but only now has it become part of what it is an alternative education system, so to speak, not so much to universities as to vocational schools and private institutions, with which they compete in a manufacturing professionalism of excellence that only a few can own and afford (classrooms and student rooms adapt to the needs, for example, models, require heavy investment and a long tradition). This particular declination of education, of course, refers to the execution (“they do not make teachers, but begin to work”, he observes Furio FranciniCEO of the Academy of Costume and Fashion and Vice President of the Fashion Platform), and is not an alternative to high school, but it represents a strong attraction for young people who are placed in prestigious work contexts. without going through Phantom Private Masters (many, for example, try to join the announcement of a brand after graduation in literature or economics: badly, they will retire with a certificate that can be used for other professions).

Besides dimensions, the fashion system is actually polarized even in the search for personnel, in the required qualifications: On the one hand, the manufacturing of the highest level, for which the industry is gradually equipping independently, not infrequently. succeed in raising regional funds for education and integration into the world of work. On the other, Management Engineering, Digital Marketing, Information Technology, all expressions of the progressive shift of the system axis towards e-commerce and related professions, such as logistics, statistics, for example, to which university courses generally respond. At the Politecnico di Milano, they can confirm that management engineers have requests for employment from fashion companies, even before discussing the diplomas.

Businesses have an interest in offering free training, just like the public sector, according to what it says Gianni Scaperrotta, Managing Director of NHRG: “Fashion represents about 4 percent of the entire supply market in Italy with 22,794 workers distributed, according to Assolavoro, between the textile and clothing industry, slightly higher than that in the tanning and footwear industry. Therefore, it is reasonable to think that about half of these temporary workers have completed free training before entering the workplace, which brings us to a significant number of courses for this sector, which could be approximately more than a thousand in a year, with a significant number of hours in the training of Personnel The market demand is currently on highly specialized professions, both on the technically-fabricated side and on the management side.

But what is the generalized dream of the boys to become Alessandro Michele of the second decade of the 2000s? Creativity has really become a commodity, to identify also among those who did not attend styling and design courses, but instead, for example, in computer science? Are the communication addresses of fashion institutes and universities a hotbed of salespeople in the shops or trainees and small public relations agencies who are always waiting for the leap into the big brand? Chat with Lupo LanzaraPresident of the Historical Academy of Costume and Fashion, who recently received the recognition of the MUR academic diploma for the three-year course of “Fashion Communication: Fashion Editor, Styling and Communication” at the Milan office, allows you to identify – completely spannometric in the violation of precise and official data – and almost hundreds of thousands of years, Italians but also and more and more foreigners after the approval of the law 212 of 2005 for the accreditation of specific courses also in the field of dance (yes, for our institutions, Fashion refers to higher artistic and musical education), students entering or visiting fashion institutes, universities and masters.

It ranges from prestigious names like you Marangoni or the Academy of Costume and Fashion itselfall equipped with the famous laboratory, which enables students to exercise their inclinations from the practical side as well, al Polimoda of Florence, Reservoir of Talents, IEDmore oriented towards design, or the Brera Academy, to the Italian universities which, after much internal resistance twenty years ago, arrived at the disciplines of fashion, crossing the courses of classical subjects, which now paradoxically find themselves in a position of strength, as cultural anthropology, ethnology, social sciences become indispensable baggage in a sector that puts the development of “Diversity & Inclusion” into its growth factors and recognized language skills an important component of the curriculum. At the “Sapienza” in Rome, as the president of the master class confirmed Romana went, new students enrolled in the three-year course are about 300 per year, and about one hundred and twenty for the second cycle diploma course in English. Numbers not too far from these concern Bologna, Florence or Venice. In the underdevelopment that attracts this sector like flies, there are endless private initiatives, usually very expensive masters, whose ultimate purpose, it is painful to say, seems to be to place students of uncertified skills in the various companies or to place them notzen. same courses as marketing lever. Act, in short, as a placement agency or self-promotion.

The platform of the fashion training system, presided over by the heir of the “Secoli dynasty”, Matteo, has rather selective rules for membership, without, however, succeeding in putting order in a system that confuses families who are culturally less equipped to understand whether it is really worthwhile to fulfill the demand of their children by investing significant sums in their dream. “I often try to focus students on professions that are more suitable for them: there are few geniuses like Michele, John Galliano, Demna Gvasalia or Virgil Abloh (both of whom have no education in fashion alone: ​​the former has a degree in economics) and finance, the second was in engineering, ed), but there is no way to distract them from their goal “, observed Massimiliano Giornetti, Director of Polimoda in Florence, former creative director of Ferragamo, Diploma in literature and only later specialized in fashion design at the same institute. Of course, when you are 20, it’s hard to give up your desire, and it must be acknowledged that at least for the major institutions, the declared employment rate is above 80 percent. But in small businesses, fashionistas, small-scale cabotage companies. As in any other sector, even in fashion, entering the Champions League is a privilege for some. But changing course is more difficult.

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