(by Giovanni Franco) (ANSA) – PALERMO, JUNE 21 – GIANFRANCO MARRONE, “LIGHT AND BAD. INTRODUCTION TO THE GASTRONOMIC SPEECH” (BOMPIANI, PP.
350, 44 COLOR PLATES FROM TEXT, 25 EURO).
“The play of shapes and substances, in the kitchen, is often intertwined with that of appearances and similarities, of visual masking even before taste.” And finally: “Nobody can confuse food with food and the table is not only focused on family life but also on social life”. In short, chefs and sommelier play at an open “dinner”, with a pun. But is it possible to do politics in the kitchen? What does a good taste of sardines and Beccafico mean? What’s the story of the napkins? How to cheat dinner on the table? Can a dish explain how it is eaten? What is the difference between western cutlery and Asian cutlery pieces? Where does the Piedmontese Bagna Caoda Ritual come from? Are there any similarities between painting and cooking? What comes first, on the table, the palate or the brain, the eyes or the taste? How can food communicate to the society in which it is produced and consumed? What does it mean to say that man is what he eats? Here are some of the questions found in essayist Gianfranco Marrone’s new book, “Delicious and Delicious.
Introduction to the gastronomic discourse “, just published by Bompiani Verlag. Marrone, a semiologist and professor at the University of Palermo, has for many years paid much attention to the language of food and cuisine, taste and table, and already has several titles on the subject (we only remember gastromania, semiotics of taste, after eating in the same way). “The communicative nature of food – he says – is about the food itself, the wide range of its qualities (tastes, smells, shapes and colors, temperatures, consequences, textures), insinuate everywhere: from the columns of the kitchen to the rituals of the table, from the cooking techniques to the tools to make it possible, from the selection of ingredients to the use of leftovers , until limited to the most obvious things “.
‘Delicious and delicious’ can be seen as a synthesis of his thinking on the subject, the result of more than ten years of study and field research at an international level. “I’m just back from France – adds the Marrone -, considered home to gastronomy, where I gave some lessons on the language of food, and I found a lot of interest and a lot of curiosity. The French cook like gods. “they know how to eat. very well, and they also pay close attention to cuisines from around the world that integrate them very well into their menus.” “But maybe – so the semiologist continues – they need some theoretical reflection on what good food is.”
But what does communication of taste mean? The food that speaks and the words to say it – says the author – influence each other and form, in their warp, the set of perceptual and cognitive, but also socio-cultural phenomena, which we include in the term “taste” We eat signs, always and in any case, we cook many others, we take them or donate them, we dispose of the waste, and at the same time we discuss it, judge it, we tell it, pass it on to others, often to our own guests , the set of meanings which, when discussed, summarizes it “.
The problem, however, according to Marrone, “is the culture of taste, which even though it is so fashionable on television, in the cinema, on social media, etc., still does not receive adequate attention at the level of education and also at the Uni kritt “. “We are opening a communication and food culture course in Palermo, which many operators in the sector have been asking us for some time.” To school? “A true high school of taste is at an advanced level at national level. And there are already, in Sicily, several institutes experimenting with it.”
“This book, which reads like a good meal, helps a lot in this,” smiles the teacher. (TRADE).